Most mods have a temperature control (TC) setting, and most owners leave it alone. Wattage mode works, and stock coils even tell you which wattage to use. The case for trying TC is that it holds the coil at a steady temperature, where in wattage mode the coil keeps getting hotter, and that cuts down on dry and burnt hits. You pick a limit, usually somewhere in the 300°F – 600°F range, and the mod keeps the coil inside it. This guide explains where the feature came from, how it works, what equipment it needs and how to set it up.
How a mod controls temperature
In use it is simple: choose a temperature and take a puff. Underneath, it depends on your mod’s power and the metal your coil is made of. As a coil wire heats, its resistance rises. Resistance is measured in ohms, shown with the “Ω” sign. Metals differ in how they behave. Kanthal, easily the most popular vape wire, keeps the same resistance whatever the temperature. TC needs a wire whose behaviour under heat is well known.
The mod reads the coil’s resistance once at room temperature and then keeps monitoring while you vape. It translates any shift in resistance into a rise in temperature and changes the power so the wire stays at your setting. Cruise control in a car is a close comparison: uphill or downhill, the car alters its power to hold the speed you chose.
Origins: Evolv and the DNA chip
In 2014 a company called Evolv introduced the DNA chip, which let the user decide how hot the coil could get instead of relying on wattage alone to vaporize e-liquid. Mods built on DNA chips are still widely rated as the best available, and many manufacturers will not sell a mod without a TC option. Evolv was also behind the familiar wattage method.
Equipment you need
A mod that does TC well
Having a TC mode does not make all mods equal. Evolv and Yihi are regarded as the best for the job, but they tend to be expensive and can be hard to find. Vaporesso, Aspire, Smoant and Modefined have made temperature control mods that are reliable and affordable.
The right wire
Mods list the wire types they support. These are the ones you will see:
- Nickel 200 (Ni200): the first TC wire. It lost popularity because some users are sensitive to nickel coils.
- Titanium Grade 1 (Ti): an option, but you have to be careful that it never overheats.
- Stainless steel: the most popular choice now, because it is easy to get and works in wattage mode as well as TC. SS316L is the most common grade; 304, 316, 316L, 317 and 430 also exist.
- Nickel Ferrous (NiFe): rarer, since it is not readily available. Its grades are 48, 30, 52 and 70, and like stainless steel it runs in both modes.
Each wire has a TCR, or temperature coefficient of resistance, which describes how much its resistance changes for a given change in temperature. The mod uses that value to know the limits of the wire and send the right amount of power. TC coils can be low in resistance, so this is not a figure to guess at. Most TC mods come with presets for Ni200, Ti and SS (316L). If you would sooner enter your own values for your metal type and grade, look for a mod with a customizable TCR.
Setting it up
- Select your wire type in the mod’s settings, using a preset or your exact TCR value.
- Make sure mod and tank are both at room temperature. Do not leave the vape in a car, where heat or cold will skew the reading. If you have been vaping and want to change modes, rest the tank and mod for about 15 minutes first.
- Check that the coil is screwed in tight. On rebuildables, confirm the leads are firmly secured.
- Screw the tank or atomizer onto the mod so it is secure but not overtightened.
- Check the resistance reading again and press the +/- buttons to lock it in.
Some mods set the wattage for you; others let you choose both wattage and temperature. With stock coils, begin at the lowest temperature and wattage marked on the coil and raise them gradually until it suits you.
For rebuildables, use stainless steel, the only material that can be dry burned in temperature control mode, and run lower wattages than you would with Ni80 or Kanthal. Dry burning is optional. Coils wound with slight spacing should not develop hot spots, and their resistance is easier for the mod to read consistently.
Choosing a temperature
Many vapers settle between 392°F to 480°F (200°C to 250°C). Move in steps of 10°F (5°C) until you find the setting you like. In TC mode the coil and wick should not overheat unless the tank is nearly empty, and when that happens each puff gives noticeably less vapor. Refill, or turn the temperature down until you can, though not too far: TC coils are very low in resistance and need a reasonable temperature to heat properly.
Advantages
- Fewer dry or burnt hits. When juice runs low the mod adjusts, and thin vapor is your cue to refill.
- Longer coil and wick life. The coil is kept from overheating and scorching the cotton, and the wick is never pushed past the temperature it needs.
- Longer battery life. One estimate is that TC draws nearly 1.5 times less power than wattage mode.
- Consistency. In wattage mode the coil’s heat differs from puff to puff, because it is driven to a set wattage and not to a set temperature.
Drawbacks
- Most mods arrive set to wattage mode, and vaping already has a steep learning curve. Get comfortable in wattage mode first.
- Stock coils usually have a suggested wattage engraved on them. In TC you have to experiment to find your temperature.
- Not every mod has TC, especially cheaper mass-produced ones. Research before buying if you expect to use it.
- TC calls for specific coil metals. Most stock coils offer no TC option, so getting the most from it means building your own.
Who it suits
Temperature control is a good fit for intermediate vapers who want to limit dry hits and burnt flavor. The price is a mod that supports it and, in most cases, coils you build yourself from suitable wire. It takes some patience and a little work. If you have questions about TC, or tips from your own experience, leave a comment for other readers.